ST MICHAEL. One of the archaeologically most interesting churches in the county, which is not at once noticeable, as the tower and the whole W end are Lord Grimth0rpe’s work of 1898. On entering, however, an early history of many stages becomes at once evident and is then borne out by external features. The nave and chancel walls are Saxon, probably of the C10. The nave windows with arches of Roman brick are partly exposed. A similar arch to a blocked doorway in the S chancel wall. The early C12 added aisles with very heavy low square piers (the Saxon walls simply left standing). The S aisle was pulled down later, but the blocked-up arcades remain. Early in the C13 the nave was heightened by a new clerestory. This with its small lancet windows also remains. So does the slightly later Lady Chapel, that is the S chancel chapel, much higher than the aisle so that the clerestory windows here look into the chapel. The Lady Chapel has very tall roundheaded lancet windows. The E end has a group of two with one circular window between, the whole framed to the inside by shafts with moulded capitals and pointed arches. The doorway from the nave into the chapel and the S doorway to the church have plain double-chamfered jambs and arches. Later alterations are the C14 ogee-headed window and low outer recess in the S chancel wall (the chancel E window is new), the Dec N aisle E window of unusual tracery design, several Perp windows, and the C15 nave roof on carved stone corbels. - FONT. Octagonal, Perp, with quatrefoil decoration. - PULPIT. Hexagonal, early C17, with tester, decorated panels, and daintily carved bookrests. - ORGAN. 1950, by Welch & Lander. — PLATE. Large London-made Chalice, Paten, Flagon, Almsdish, all of 1736; Almsdish, 1743. - MONUMENTS. Brass. to John Pecock d. 1330 and wife (S chapel). — Brass to a civilian (figure of the wife missing), within the head of a beautifully ogee-foliated cross, also c. 1330. — Brass to a Knight, c. 1400 (nave, E end). — The international fame of the church is the monument to Sir Francis Bacon, the philosopher and Lord Chancellor, d. 1626, life—size marble figure seated comfortably and asleep, an exceptionally ‘genre’ conception for the date.
A mile as the crow flies from St Stephen’s is St Michael’s church, reached from St Stephen’s by King Harry Lane and Bluehouse Hill, and from the city by the old-fashioned streets on each side of the river. St Michael’s is within the boundary of the Roman city. Together with the churchyard and the vicarage, it is on the site of the Roman Forum, the centre of the municipal life of the ancient city, where, in the Roman law courts, Alban was sent to his martyrdom. Roman brick and flint from the ruins are still in the church walls. There is Saxon walling in the nave and chancel. The Normans gave the nave its first aisles, shaping their arcades in the Saxon walls, and three massive Norman bays still stand on the north side, while four Norman bays of the south arcade are still to be seen - one open to the chapel, the others having doorways built under them. Two of these doorways are 13th century, and one has a 500-year-old door with studs and strap hinges. Above the arcades are remains of Saxon windows made with Roman bricks.
The 13th-century clerestory has original lancets, except for three windows of about 1500. Above it is the 15th-century roof resting on old angel corbels. The chancel has a blocked doorway of Roman brick probably built by the Saxons, and windows of all three medieval centuries; one lancet has an oak lintel. The tower and west end were rebuilt in 1898. The altar table is Elizabethan, and two chairs and the fine canopied pulpit were richly carved in Jacobean days. The old hourglass stand is still here. There are three shields in old glass, a 15th-century font, a 14th-century tomb recess in an outside wall (sheltering a coffin lid), and traces of wall painting which include remains of a Doom. A Roman coffin and part of a Roman pillar are under the tower. One of three fine old brasses is a cross with the small figure of a man in the head; he wears a long gown buttoned at the throat, and a sword hangs from his girdle. A knight in armour and helmet, with a dog at his feet, is about 600 years old and another brass of the same age is of John Peacock and his wife; John has a scrubby beard and a long robe with a cape, and Maud has a fine draped headdress. Three peacocks are on the shield.
No visit to St Albans is complete without a visit to St Michael’s, for here in the chancel sleeps Francis Bacon, and here, sculptured in marble by someone unknown, he sits in a chair, resting his head on his hand, wearing the elaborate dress of his time — puffed breeches, fur-lined mantle, and a big ruff, a wide hat on his head and rosettes on his shoes. From the lodge gates near the church, the fine tree lined Gorhambury Drive brings us to what is left of his old home, a sad ruin now, with roofless walls of brick and flint. The present house, a few hundred yards away, is the seat of Lord Verulam, and was built in 1778 by the third Viscount Grimston. An imposing house with a balustraded parapet, it has been much altered, but keeps its grand 18th-century entrance at the head of a flight of steps, with ten Corinthian columns.
The 13th-century clerestory has original lancets, except for three windows of about 1500. Above it is the 15th-century roof resting on old angel corbels. The chancel has a blocked doorway of Roman brick probably built by the Saxons, and windows of all three medieval centuries; one lancet has an oak lintel. The tower and west end were rebuilt in 1898. The altar table is Elizabethan, and two chairs and the fine canopied pulpit were richly carved in Jacobean days. The old hourglass stand is still here. There are three shields in old glass, a 15th-century font, a 14th-century tomb recess in an outside wall (sheltering a coffin lid), and traces of wall painting which include remains of a Doom. A Roman coffin and part of a Roman pillar are under the tower. One of three fine old brasses is a cross with the small figure of a man in the head; he wears a long gown buttoned at the throat, and a sword hangs from his girdle. A knight in armour and helmet, with a dog at his feet, is about 600 years old and another brass of the same age is of John Peacock and his wife; John has a scrubby beard and a long robe with a cape, and Maud has a fine draped headdress. Three peacocks are on the shield.
No visit to St Albans is complete without a visit to St Michael’s, for here in the chancel sleeps Francis Bacon, and here, sculptured in marble by someone unknown, he sits in a chair, resting his head on his hand, wearing the elaborate dress of his time — puffed breeches, fur-lined mantle, and a big ruff, a wide hat on his head and rosettes on his shoes. From the lodge gates near the church, the fine tree lined Gorhambury Drive brings us to what is left of his old home, a sad ruin now, with roofless walls of brick and flint. The present house, a few hundred yards away, is the seat of Lord Verulam, and was built in 1778 by the third Viscount Grimston. An imposing house with a balustraded parapet, it has been much altered, but keeps its grand 18th-century entrance at the head of a flight of steps, with ten Corinthian columns.
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