Statcounter

Thursday, 4 November 2010

Sawbridgeworth

Sawbo, aka Sawbridgeworth, is, around these parts, a synonym for shit-hole, much as Harlow, in the vernacular Arlow, is a synonym for single teenage mum and sink-hole estates, but rather surprisingly contains a jewel - and what a jewel. I knew you shouldn't judge a book by it's cover and I've now learnt not to judge a church by it's exterior - I took 150 interior photos which reflects the quality of Great St Mary.

The Church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is thought to be called Great St. Mary's to distinguish it from St. Mary's, Gilston. During the second half of the 18th century and much of the 19th it was said, even in the Diocesan books, to be dedicated to St. Michael, though how this confusion arose is a mystery. Later it was said to be dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, presumably a misinterpretation of S. Maria Mag., "Mag." being short for Magna = great.

The earliest reference we have to the church in Sawbridgeworth is the entry in Domesday Book that the priest had one hide (about 120 acres). The church itself is not mentioned, but that need not surprise us, for in the whole of Hertfordshire only three churches are mentioned.

Sawbridgeworth was assessed at 24 1/2 hides, which is four or five times the size of an average village; moreover it was almost all good farm land, so the tithes would have ensured a large income for the priest. It was, in fact, one of the most valuable benefices in the London Diocese and for many years was reserved by the Kings of England as provision for some favoured official. The list of Rectors is a striking one and bears the names of many who held high office in church and state.

The early history of the church is somewhat complex. The Manor of Sabrixteworde, as it was then called, was given by William the Conqueror to Geoffrey de Mandeville, who founded the Priory of Hurley, which he endowed with a third of all his lands. When he died, Sawbridgeworth was given to Eudo Dapifer until Geoffrey's son William had paid a debt of £2210. Eudo had just founded the Abbey of St. John, Colchester, and he endowed it with another third of the tithes of Sawbridgeworth. Eudo died in 1120 and Henry I granted the manor to his favourite Otuel FitzCourt, who was later drowned in the White Ship; then Henry gave it to the monks at Westminster and it is thought that he probably stipulated that a number of the monks should live at Sawbridgeworth and pray for the souls of those who had lost their lives in the White Ship.

During the war between Stephen and Matilda, Geoffrey de Mandeville, grandson of the first Geoffrey, managed to regain possession of Sawbridgeworth and he gave it to the Priory of Walden, which he had just founded. At that time Walter, Geoffrey's chaplain, was Rector and he is the first Rector whose name we know. Later, about 1220, the Bishops of London claimed that they had been given the advowson by an agreement with the Abbots of Walden and ;Westminster, and from that time until 1356 there were continual arguments between the Bishops of London and the Abbots concerning their rights. In actual fact, neither Bishop nor Abbot had much part in the selection of the Sawbridgeworth Rectors; they might claim their right of presentation, but the choice lay with the King, and the King saw to it that the living went to one of his household. So it is that among Sawbridgeworth Rectors we find the names of four Chancellors of England, a Chancellor of the Exchequer, a Papal Vice-Chancellor and other notables.

In 1356 the tithes were appropriated to the Abbey of Westminster and a vicarage was endowed. As a result the living was no longer wealthy and we find no more great men among the incumbents.

The present church dates from the 13th century but it must replace an earlier building, though no trace of such a church has been found. There is just one possible hint of an earlier phase. ln pagan times sacred stones were much venerated, and the Venerable Bede relates how Pope Gregory told his missionaries not to destroy them, but to incorporate them in the fabric of their churches. As a result a number of mediaeval churches have pagan stones built into their footings. One well known example is St. Mary's, Chesham, which is built on a circle of boulders. A near example is Magdalen Laver which has two pudding-stones marking the corners of the North Wall. Sawbridgeworth has a puddingstone built into the south wall of the tower.

The church consists of a chancel 44 ft. x 23.5 ft., a nave 58 ft. x 28 ft., north aisle 59 ft. x 11.5 ft., south aisle 73 ft. x 19 ft., south porch 12 ft. x 10 ft., and tower 19.5 ft. x 17 ft., all inside measurements.

It is built of rubble with flint facings and stone quoins, the chancel walls being coated with cement, and is surrounded by a large burial ground containing some fine trees. The battlemented tower is of three stages, surmounted by a 'Hertfordshire Spike'. The spike and roofs are covered with lead, with the exception of the north aisle which is covered with copper, and the south aisle with stainless steel.

In style it is Early English and the chancel, nave and lower stage of the tower are generally thought to be late 13th century, the aisles being added in the 14th century. According to the Victorian County History there was a tremendous amount of rebuilding of Hertfordshire village churches at this time. This is attributed to two causes: it was a time of Church reform, and the whole nation was seized with an impatience of the old forms and a desire for new things. Added to this a number of churches had fallen into a sad state of disrepair, the drain of men and money to the Scottish and French wars being given as one of the causes. This may well have been the case in Sawbridgeworth.

The clerestory and the roofs of the nave and aisle are said to be 15th century, together with the porch and upper stages of the tower. The little brick tower staircase is 16th century.

The church has apparently suffered no damage from Cromwell's army and the only Puritan influence now visible is in the pulpit with its inscription 'Christe is all in al/' and in a few erasures from one or two brasses. The historian William Cole who came here in 1763, records 'The Communion Railes, which were maliciously and illegally pu//ed down by a usurped powen in the late Rebellious Times, were, according to law and for the Honour and Decency of Religion, and again erected before the Communion Table in the Chancele of Sabridgeworth, on Thursday before Easter viz April 17th ano 1674 by the order of John Warde vicar'.

During the Protectorate in 1656 the chancel was found to be in a ruinous state and, it being reported that the nave was large enough to accommodate the whole parish, it was at first ordered that the chancel be pulled down and the material used to repair the nave. Later this order was rescinded and the chancel was restored. By 1700 it was again in a very bad state, the Vicar reporting that 'the last
repairs amounted to £2OO and were done presently after the Reformation and the said Chancel is much out of repair and in great danger of falling to the Ground if timely care be not taken’. It was again repaired and re-roofed.

In 1845 the whole church was in a shocking state, windows crumbling and the roof letting in the rain, and some repairs were done to the chancel and it was again re-roofed.

In 1849 there was a major restoration and at various times up to and including 1872 further repairs and alterations were carried out. In 1951 because of the high cost of lead the north aisle was re-roofed in copper, which was treated to harmonise with the old lead roofs.

Before the Victorian alterations there were two large family pews, belonging to Pishiobury and Hyde Hall, blocking up the screen and the entrance to the chancel. A three-decker pulpit stood on the south of the nave, the aisles were filled with box pews, though the nave had pews of the present type and the whole of the west part of the nave and the aisles was filled with three large galleries.

The east window was smaller, and beneath it was a carved wood reredos and a much smaller altar. It is generally thought that the chancel is late 13th century, but it has been so much repaired that most all the visible material is modern. However, according to the Royal Commission on Historical Monuments, at the west end of the south wall there is an original richly moulded two-centre arch, said to be c. 1200. The Chancel arch is probably 13th century, repaired, with modern capitals and bases. In the north wall is a blocked doorway which used to lead to a vestry, pulled down because it was ruinous in the 19th century.

In 1656 the chancel was found to be in a ruinous state, and was to be pulled down, but the order was rescinded and it was restored at a cost of 2200. In 1700 it was in a poor state yet again and was repaired and re-roofed. 1845 saw the chancel in a shocking state, so repairs were again undertaken. In 2001 the lead on the roof needed to be replaced. When the lead was removed it was discovered that it was near to collapse. Of the ninety rafters fixed to the main beams sixty-five had completely rotted away. The whole roof was properly repaired, restored and strengthened.

The windows were all renewed in 1845, and in 1859 the east window was enlarged, but it was not until 1866 that the stained glass was inserted in memory of B. B. Colvin, Esq., of Pishiobury. It represents the Five Principal Events in the life of Our Lord and is by Hardman.

Over the chancel screen is the figure of The Risen Christ, a sculpture by John Mills, commissioned by The Friends of Gt. St. Mary for the millennium.

The oak ceiling was put up in 1872, before that there was plaster. On the west side of the second beam across the ceiling is the inscription '1662. Thomas Russell repaired this chancel'. On the east side of the first beam from the east wall is 'W Sharpe 1884'.

To the north of the altar is the tomb of John Jocelin (d. 1525) and 'Philip' his wife. William Cole in 1763 notes that it is already mutilated.

On the south side is a richly carved canopied tomb of Purbeck marble, with indents for brasses of a man, his two wives and children and an emblem of the Trinity. There is a tradition that this also belongs to the Jocelin family, but it has not been possible to confirm it. It is interesting that it is practically identical with Chaucer's tomb in Westminster Abbey.

On the north wall is a charming painted alabaster monument to Sir Waiter Myldemaye (d. 1606) and Marie his wife (d. 1605). They are shown kneeling, facing each other across a reading desk, while their son Thomas kneels behind his father. This is not, as is sometimes stated, the Sir Walter Mildmay who was Chancellor of the Exchequer and founder of Emmanuel College. He was also Sheriff of Herts from 1589-1590 and inherited Pishiobury from his father. He is buried in St. Bartholomew the Great.

Nearby is the brass of Jeffrey Jocelin (d. 1470) and his two wives Katherine and Joan. Further west, but still on the north side, is the large and flamboyant memorial to George, Viscount Hewyt (1652-1689). The trophies and architectural background are heavy and undistinguished, but the figure of Lord George himself and the head of the cherub above the inscription are beautifully done.

On the south wall is a large tablet to the Hon. Henry Lumley (1659-1722), his wife Anne (1669-1736) and his little daughter Frances. The inscription says that he was in every battle and at every siege as Colonel, Lt.-Colonel or General of Horse in 29 campaigns in Ireland, Flanders and Germany. Frances, his only child, was born when he was 55 and his wife 45, but she died in her sixth year. No wonder they say of her Sometime ye joy then ye anguish of her fond parents'.

The hatchment is one of the Jocelin family; the quarterings are Castelain, Batell, Hide and Bardolf.
 
The nave walls are probably 13th century and the arcades with their two-centred moulded arches 14th century, but the arches were much restored in 1849 when the nave was re-roofed and the clerestory windows renewed. Some of the carved heads at the stops of the arch mouldings date from this time and represent Bishop Wigram, Bishop Claughton, H. R. Rivers Esq. (Churchwarden), and the vicar's youngest son Oliver Cromwell Field. At this time the church was in the diocese of Rochester, and was transferred circa 1866 to the Diocese of St Albans. Bishop Claughton became the first Bishop of St. Albans, his tomb, a magnificent white marble monument may be found in the north transept of the Cathedral.

The roof is 15th century, with moulded beams and traceried spandrels, on carved stone corbels. As with the chancel, the roof was in a terrible state and had to be extensively renewed. This was started in 1849 under the direction of Harry Rivers, the vicar’s warden at the time. This was completed in 1872. The quinquennial inspection in 1997 showed that the nave roof was due to be re-leaded. In 2001 the old lead was stripped off to reveal that most of the timber was severely affected by dry rot, and was deemed to be in a dangerous condition. Consequently scaffolding had to be erected, not only over the roof but inside the whole of the nave whilst ends of the main beams were replaced together with the support arches. This of course added considerably to the cost, and a total amount of £300,000 had to be raised. This work was completed in December 2002. Generous support was given by various means, in particular by The Historic Churches Preservation Trust.

The screen of traceried oak is 15th century and above it there used to be a rood loft, the entrance to which can be seen in the east wall of the nave. This was no doubt taken down at the Reformation.

Above the chancel arch are four panels, showing the Lord's Prayer, Apostles' Creed and the Ten Commandments. The letters were all cut out of cardboard, and covered with gold silk thread, and nailed on to blue velvet by the family of A. Wiseman, Esq. Vicar’s Warden, in 1878. Restored by ‘The Friends’ in December 1999. Work on the panels was carried out by National Trust conservators.

When the three-decker pulpit was taken apart, cleaned and scraped, it was found to be an old Jacobean oak pulpit with the date 1632. This is thought to have been added by the Puritans, and reads "Christie is all in all 1632". The Pulpit is now not in its original position, and was sited in front of the doors to the screen, which, together with the high sided Family Pews (now gone) virtually blocked out the view to the chancel. Several of the pews are early 16th century, the others 19th century copies.

On the east wall, above the lectern, is the black and white marble monument of Sir William Hewyt (d. 1637) and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1646). With its air of quiet devotion it is in marked contrast to that of Sir William's grandson, Lord George, in the chancel. Above the pulpit is the fine monument of Robert, Viscount Jocelyn (1688-1756), for 17 years Lord Chancellor of the Kingdom of Ireland. It is signed by John Bacon and is considered one of his best works. Viscount Jocelyn is shown wearing his robes and wig as Chancellor, while below is the weeping figure of Justice mourning his loss.

Near the entrance to the chancel is an incised floor slab with the almost obliterated figure of a woman. When seen in an oblique light it is just possible to make out the head, the hands and some folds of the garments. The inscription is in Lombardic letters but is too worn to read. The date appears to be late 13th century, so this is probably the oldest memorial in the church.

Nearby in the central aisle is the floor slab of Master Thomas de Aungerville, rector of this parish from 1333. Though the brass letters of the inscription have long ago disappeared the indents remain and are nearly all legible The language was Latin, the letters Lombardic. Translated the inscription reads 'Here lies Thomas de Aungerville, sometime Rector of Sabrichesworth' (an old form of Sawbridgeworth).

In front of the lectern is a broken brass of 12 boys (there used to be 16) and one of six girls. This is all that remains of the brass of John Chauncy (d. 1479) and his wife Ann (d. 1477), sister of John Leventhorpe. The missing figure of John was long thought to be at Goodrich Court and a plate of eight children in Saffron Walden Museum was also said to belong to it. These were returned in 1949 and will be found in the south aisle, but as explained in the 'Notes on Monuments in Great St. Mary's' they cannot in fact be part of this brass.

On the south wall is a hatchment of the First Earl of Roden. His peer's robes are used instead of the usual mantling. On the north wall are, east, the hatchment of Jeremiah Milles, whose monument is in the south aisle, and west, that of an unmarried female member of the Gardiner family.

In 1967 the organ, which used to fill the arch between the chancel and the south aisle, was moved to its present position above the tower arch. Experiments then started to find the best place for the choir. The north aisle was tried, utilising some of the pews in the nave, but it finally joined the organ at the west end.

On the walls round the choir will be seen some of the brasses of the Leventhorpe family. On the south of the west wall are the brasses of Edward Leventhorpe (1514-1551) and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1592). Edward wears early Stuart armour, and Elizabeth's garments are also those of the end of the 16th century. On the north side is the heraldic brass of Joan, wife of Thomas Leventhorpe (d. 1527) whose brass has been lost. Originally Joan's mantle would have been coloured red with an ermine canton, and her headdress would also have been coloured.

On the north wall are the brasses of John Leventhorpe (1400-1488) and his first wife Joan (d. 1488). They are shown in their shrouds, and in their hands they hold their hearts inscribed with the prayer Jhu Mcy' (Jesu mercy).  Later the prayer was scored through, probably at the Reformation, when prayers for the dead were considered Popish. The inscription that belongs to these brasses is mounted below. It used to be on the east wall of the south chapel:

Beneath lie dust, decay and gnawing worm:
Death's lackey now he is, as life is his no more;
He nothing knows, nor has, nor are his virtues seen.
Look-meaner than the mire, the terror horror stench,
Disgrace of all the world, and common refuse he.
Here, brother see thyself and breathe a prayer for me.

The church used to be lit by two large chandeliers which hung from the roof of the nave and by long wooden candlesticks which fitted into the tops of the pews. The holes in which they fitted can still be seen.

Formerly the men used to sit on the south side of the nave and the women on the north side, but this was discontinued in 1879.

The lower stage of the tower is 13th century, the two upper stages 15th century. The tower arch is 14th century and so is the west doorway but both have been repaired.

In 1857 ‘the tower was re-cased in flint and during the course of the work the two lancet windows in the 2nd stage were rediscovered: they had been covered with plaster. They were repaired and the four 3rd stage windows were renewed. It was also at this time that the entrance arch and west windows were partly restored, but it was not until 1895 that the stained glass window was put in. The upper part of the centre light shows Our Lord appearing to the Disciples after the Resurrection, the lower His meeting with Mary at the raising of Lazarus. The right light shows Timothy with his mother Eunice, and the left David before Saul. The glass was given by J. T. Mann of Hyde Hall in memory of his second son.

In 1859 the gallery in the nave was removed and the tower arch was opened up. The big memorial to Sir Thomas Hewyt was also brought from the chancel and placed under the tower.

On the North wall is a list of the Benefactors for Charities connected with the Parish which dates back to 1732, and it is interesting to note the change in the lettering of the money. The pounds shillings and pence is denoted as 1 f d and the figure 1 is shown as a J. This must have changed during that year to read the usual £ s d.

Towards the end of the completion of repairs to the Nave roof in December 2002 it was discovered that part of the Tower was bulging and in a dangerous condition. Work was started to dismantle the East face, N. East and S. West corners and gradually re-build the whole of the East face. This took a long time as the walls are 4ft thick. The bulging was caused by the rotting of part of the original 16th century scaffolding called "put lugs" (similar to wooden railway sleepers). This, together with the weight of the bells and steeple had caused enormous cracks right to the top of the Tower. Further repairs to the West face and every corner were completed in June 2004.

The north arcade has rather richer mouldings than the south and is probably some 20 years older, though both are 14th century. So are the windows, though they were largely restored in the 19th century. The stained glass was put in in 1882 by Mr. Wiseman and represents some of the parables. The north doorway is also 14th century.

At the east end is the Memorial Altar dedicated to the men who gave their lives in two World Wars. The roll of honour was carved by the local firm of Walter Lawrence and Son, and the altar furniture was bought with funds from the wartime Forces Canteen.

Beside the altar is a large piscina, whose height shows that the floor of the old chapel which must once have been here was at least 18 inches higher than the present level.

The pews were installed in 1859, replacing the old box pews.

The roofs of both aisles are 15th century, with moulded ribs and carved bosses. They used to be plastered between the ribs, but the plaster was removed in 1951.

The south aisle is 14th century and in the south wall of the chapel is a blocked 14th century window, but all the other windows are either modern or greatly restored. The two windows in the south wall were put in in 1862, replacing one large and one small window. The stained glass in the more westerly one was put in in 1884 in memory of Mrs. Hiley of Hyde Hall and represents the Feeding of the Five Thousand; the other was added two years later in memory of Lieut. Hiley and shows the Raising of Lazarus. The brass inscription beneath this window can be translated: 'Not only in memory of a youth distinguished for rare physical and mental powers, but also to the glory of God who in mercy gave and with mercy hath taken away his life this window has been erected by a grief stricken father and a friend'.

Beside it is an interesting example of a modern brass. It is that of Cpl. Joseph Vick (d. 1888). He was one of the few survivors of the "six hundred" in the Charge of the Light Brigade. He had his horse shot from under him and was wounded in the head, rescued by holding on to the stirrup of a fellow soldier. He was buried in the churchyard with full military honours and the brass was erected by public subscription at the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

The roof is 15th century and most of the corbels are carved, the four more easterly ones being symbols of the four Evangelists.

The altar is a solid oak communion table, nearly square, of about the same age as the pulpit, and used to be the High Altar. It has had a chequered career. At some unknown period a new altar was installed and this one was relegated to the old vestry. When the vestry was pulled down, it was sold to a tradesman in the town and from there it passed to the Reading Room. The Reading Room was a failure, so a carpenter bought the table for a planing bench, and the vicar, the Rev. S. R Field, happening to see it, thought it looked ecclesiastical, traced its history, bought it back and restored it to the church. The next vicar lengthened it, and in 1939 it was placed in its present position, when the south aisle was blacked out and used for evening services.

Behind the altar two broken pieces of coffin lid will be seen leaning against the east wall. They are of similar type but do not belong to the same coffin, and one of them is inscribed. The letters are Lombardic, the language Norman French: only part of the inscription survives. Translated it reads 'William   lies here. God of his charity have mercy`.

This stone was found some years ago in a Knight Street yard being used as a chopping block. The other was found a little later in a Bell Street garden being used as a doorstep. Both are probably 13th century.

The south aisle is the original resting place of the Leventhorpe family's memorials, though some have been moved to the west end. In front of the altar is the magnificent brass of the founder of the Hertfordshire branch of the family, John Leventhorpe (d. 1435), and his wife Katherine (d. 1437). He was the second son of a Yorkshire squire, yet he rose to be King's Esquire to Henry IV and Henry V, Guardian of Henry V when he was a boy, Receiver General of the Duchy of Lancaster, and Executor of the Wills of both Henry IV and Henry V.

Nearby is the fine painted alabaster tomb of Sir John Leventhorpe, the 1st Baronet (1560 to 1625) and Joan his wife (d. 1627). Below them kneel their children. Charles, their fourth son, who was Rector of High Roding, is shown in clerical dress, and Arthur, who died in infancy, is shown as a child.

Near the porch is a floor slab, similar to that of Thomas de Aungerville in the nave, but so worn that it is impossible to read the inscription.

The chest is probably early 17th century. It is oak, with iron straps, and was fastened with five padlocks, one of which is wedge shaped, having the hole for the key at the side, and is very old. The lid has been sawn in half and a door made at one end. For many years it was used as a coal bin, which accounts for some of its damage.

The south door is particularly massive. It is of English Oak cut from Hatfield Forest, 11 ft. 6 in. by 5 ft. 2 in. and 4½ in. thick with traceried panels and most original ironwork. It is probably 14th century or early 15th century, but has been repaired. The huge old key has a stem 1 ft. long.

Near it is an old oak poor box with three locks, which probably dates from about 1600.

The font is octagonal, with quatrefoil panels and dates from c. 1400. It is very much repaired and is said to have been in 200 pieces.

The two hatchments are, east, that of Rose, wife of Jeremiah Milles and, west, that of her daughter, wife of Rowland Alston.

Mrs. R A. Esdaile, the great authority on English Monumental Art, has written 'The brasses at Sawbridgeworth, the admirable Church chest, the poor box, and the colossal mediaeval South door are well known. It is less commonly realised that the sculptured monuments are of quite exceptional importance. The Church in fact is a museum of English sculpture by great artists'.

PEVSNER.

Great Saint Mary (2)


John Leventhorp 1488


Sir Walter Mildmaye 1606.1


Henry Lumly 1722.1


Sir John Leventhorpe 1625


Sawbridgeworth. We turn from the Cambridge road into Bell Street, and it is like going back 300 years. The old cottages of timbered-and-plastered brick overhang the street on either side, and at the end is a church where the great folk of this small town live on in stone and brass.

They are nobly housed in this spacious medieval church, standing boldly on a wide expanse of lawn among pines and yews, with a view across the River Stort through a row of chestnuts. The nave and the chancel are 700 years old, the aisles and arcades 600, the spire, the upper part of the stalwart tower, the porch and clerestory were added 500 years ago, and on the bell outside the tower the hours have struck since Charles II got back his throne.

We enter by the massive iron-strapped door which has been opening and shutting for 500 years. Here is the traceried chancel screen and the aisle roofs with carved bosses all new in those days, the railed pews with linenfold ends, the poor-box into which the Elizabethans dropped their alms, the pulpit and the great chest with five locks, and the font to which rich and poor brought their babies 600 years ago to be baptised by Thomas de Aungervil, whose stone is in the floor of the nave. On another stone is cut the outline of a 14th-century nun, nameless, as is the grand 15th century canopied tomb from which the brass portraits have been torn.

The chief families portrayed in brass and stone are the Levenhorps, who were here for centuries, and the Joscelyns, who lived across the river at Hyde Hall, now replaced by a Georgian house. At Hyde Hall was born John Joscelyn, one of our first Anglo-Saxon scholars, who as Latin secretary to Archbishop Parker contributed the Lives of the Archbishops for his employer’s History of the British Church, published in 1572. John lies at High Roding in Essex, but here are buried his relatives: Ralph, twice Lord Mayor of London during the 15th century; John, who is sculptured with his wife on a tomb of 1525; and Geoffrey, pictured on a brass of 1470 with his two wives and 18 children. (this was the only inaccessible brass when I visited -to view it you have to make prior arrangements as several rows of chairs have to moved). Then come the Leventhorps: Sir John, an executor of Henry V’s will, with a fine brass portrait of himself and his wife; Joan, probably the brass lady of about 1500 who has lost her name and her husband but retains the Leventhorp arms; Mary of 1566, whose portrait is under the tower near those of a nameless 15th century couple in shrouds; Edward and his wife, with brass portraits made in 1600; and last of all Sir John Leventhorp, whose stone figure in Jacobean armour reclines by his wife’s, while their eight daughters and six sons (one the jolliest little fellow) appear in relief. There are also figures of their neighbours, Sir William Hewett and his wife, and a small monument of 1606 where Sir Walter Myldemaye kneels with his wife and their bearded son. It was to this Sir Walter that Elizabeth I granted Pishiobury, the 250 acre park to the south of the town, but the noble mansion Sir Walter built there was burned down, and only some panelling and a few fittings were rescued for the house raised in its place beside the lake, a battlemented brick house reached by an avenue of oak trees nearly a mile long.

Sunday, 31 October 2010

Standon

St Mary is thought to replace a much earlier Saxon church to which the present 13th century chancel was added. The nave and aisles are fine examples of the Decorated period of the late 14th century with tall arches, a clerestory above and a magnificent window above the west door. The church, along with 140 acres of land was bequeathed in 1199 to the Knights of St. John, whose hospice still stands close by and was still the church school until 1974. The Knights remained in possession of the church until the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century.

The church is built of uncut flints, originally arranged in a chessboard pattern, but altered when the church was restored in 1864 and re-arranged without any pattern. The tower did not then join the church; a square plot of grass bounded by two walls being between the church and the tower, until this was filled in and used as an organ chamber for an organ installed in 1865. The older organ and the singers’ gallery above the west door were then cleared away. A new organ was built in 2000, occupying a position in the South aisle.

On entering the church one is immediately struck by the height of the chancel, there being a gentle slope the whole way up from the west end to the sanctuary, which is thirteen steps above the level of the nave . This construction is most unusual and occurs only in churches built by the Knights of St. John. They are called "processional" churches.

The chancel arch is Early English with fine dog-tooth moulding ornamentation. The Devonshire marble pillars however were erected at the time of the major restoration in 1864. At that date the lancet windows were inserted in the north and south walls of the chancel and a fine 15th century east window was replaced by the present window of three lights in the Early English style. On each side of the chancel arch are openings, or hagioscopes, which at one time went down to the floor of the chancel. The stone staircase to the right of the chancel arch and the opening above leading to the rood loft, remain. Of the rood loft itself no traces are left.

In the wall of the south aisle, where formerly was the Lady Chapel, is a stone coffin under a floriated arch. This is thought to have belonged to an earlier church. The font is much restored but parts of it are of the 12th century.

There are several interesting monuments. In the north aisle stands the altar tomb of John Field, an Alderman of London, who died in 1477. The brasses on this tomb show Alderman Field in a long, loose robe, with the Squire, his son, alongside him in an elaborate suit of armour. At the foot of the tomb are the three children of the Alderman and his four grand-children.

On the south side of the chancel is an impressive monument to Sir Ralph Sadleir, who died in 1587. The 80 years of his life were eventful ones. He entered the service of Henry VIII as a young man and became a gentleman of the Privy Council. He was three times sent on an embassy to James V of Scotland and on the last of these occasions was commissioned to negotiate a marriage between Prince Edward and the newly-born Princess Mary, the future Queen of Scots. In this he was unsuccessful. Six years later he was in Scotland again as Treasurer to the Army and returned from the battle of Pinkie with the Scottish banner, the pole, of which still stands in the chancel. The immensely strong chest, which stands in the nave near the Field tomb almost certainly carried the coin, with which the English army was paid.

Sir Ralph later became keeper to Mary, Queen of Scots and was finally, the year before he died, one of the knights of the Privy Council at her trial and execution at Fotheringay. His house, Standon Lordship, was built in 1546, though it would seem that he must have spent little time there. A fine monument in Italian marble to his son, Thomas, stands on the opposite side of the chancel. His life seems to have been less eventful, though in 1603 he entertained James I and his Scottish retinue for two nights at the Lordship on their way to London for the King's coronation.

On leaving the church, the steep climb up the churchyard rewards one with a fine view over the village and surrounding country.

ST MARY. Unique in the county in two features: the large W porch and the detached tower to the s of the E end of the aisle. The church stands on rising ground, the E parts higher than the W end. Hence the chancel is raised by a number of steps, the most impressive effect inside. The chancel is early C13, as proved by two N lancet windows and the spectacular chancel arch with three orders of big polished shafts (renewed in G. Godwin’s restoration of 1865 in pink marble) with shaft-rings and stiff-leaf capitals, and an arch with dog-tooth ornament (cf. Eastwick). When, in the mid C19, the nave was rebuilt much wider than before, side openings were cut into the W wall of the chancel to allow a freer sight of the altar. Of mid C14 work the following survives: the W doorway, the four-light Dec W window with flowing tracery, the aisle windows, especially those to the W and E, and the ogee-headed recess in the S aisle. The arcade piers are assigned to the same date, but seem later. It is a big church. The arcades have five bays. They are tall and have piers with an uncommon section (four attached semi-octagonal shafts and in the diagonals a keel between two hollows; cf. Tring) and two-centred arches. Above a (later) clerestory (with the windows above the spandrels, not the apexes of the arches). Of the C15 the tower in its present form and the big deep W porch with two windows on each side. - FONT. A very interesting early C13 design; octagonal, with two horizontal wavy bands of stylized leaves running around the bowl. - MONUMENTS. In the chancel Brass to a kneeling Knight, lower part only, 1412. - At the end of the nave Brasses to a civilian, mid C15; to a Knight of the Wade family d. 1557. - In the N aisle plain tombchest, originally with brass-shields against the sides. On the lid the exquisite brasses said to be to John Field d. 1474, a merchant of the ‘Stapull of Caleys’, and his son John Field, Squire, represented by the side of his father and in the same size (2 ft 9 in). The son is in armour. Both stand on hillocks with pretty flowers. Below the small figures of some children. The elder John Field had been rich enough to lend Henry VI £2,000 for the defence of Calais. - In the chancel standing wall monuments to Sir Ralph Sadleir d. 1587 and Sir Thomas Sadleir d. 1606. Both are monuments with recumbent effigies (Sir Ralph alone, Sir Thomas behind and a little above his wife) under arches (Sir Ralph’s shallow and decorated with fleurons, Sir Thomas’s deeper and coffered) and flanked by columns. In the spandrels of Sir Ralph’s are Victories, in those of Sir Thomas’s thin scrolls. The back walls have big bold cartouches, Sir Ralph’s also excellent ribbon Work. The tops are achievements; Sir Ralph’s has also two obelisks at the angles. Both works come obviously from leading London workshops. By the side of Sir Ralph’s monument his helmets (C16), sword (C14), spurs, and standard pole.


St Mary (4)


St Mary (2)


Panorama merge


Alderman John Field (2)


Thomas Sadleir 1606


Sir Ralph Sadleir 1587


Standon. Every day the flying man flies over it, but never again will its people look at him with such amaze as came to them one autumn day in 1784, when there arrived at Standon the first human traveller from the English skies. A stone has been set up at Standon Green End, and on it we read of an event recorded as a "wondrous enterprise successfully achieved by the powers of chemistry and the fortitude of man."

It must have seemed a fearful thing to these villagers who were looking up on that September afternoon at a great spherical object floating through the sky, slowly descending until it touched the ground in a field near by, and a voice cried out calling on the people to secure the monster. Out of it, from the car suspended beneath the great silk ball, stepped a man and a dog. The man was Vincenza Lunardi, a young Italian who had made a balloon fitted with racket-shaped wings and oars which he declared would help to control it. He had started at Moorfields, 30 miles away, on the grounds of the Honourable Artillery Company, and had been just over two hours in the air. Three living creatures had entered the car at Moorfields, Lunardi, his dog, and a cat, but, falling very low as he came to North Mimms, Lunardi had astonished a country woman walking there, and had handed her his cat for safe keeping before he rose again and came on to Standon, so completing the first successful balloon flight ever known.

This was the village’s great event; its great man lies in his tomb in the medieval church, close by the timbered school which has stood for centuries. The plan of the church is unusual, for in the 15th century a porch was added at the west end and a detached tower built beside the chancel, to which it has since been linked by an organ chamber. By this porch we come into a scene of singular beauty.

The lofty nave, with aisles, doorways, and windows 600 years old, slopes a little upwards, and eight steps mount to the 13th-century chancel, five more reaching the altar. The 700-year-old chancel arch is rich with carving, and has on each side of it a peep-hole through which the altar can be seen. Through the arch as we come in we see three lancets shining over the altar. The tomb we see high up in the chancel is that of as honourable a man as ever served our Tudor kings and queens, Sir Ralph Sadler. Here he is in stone, his seven children carved round his tomb and his armour hanging over it, with his stirrups and spurs. Resting at the tomb is a pole more thrilling than it looks, for from it waved the Royal Standard of Scotland at the Battle of Pinkie. It is over and forgotten, but in 1547 there was a plan to unite the English and the Scots by marrying Edward VI and Mary Queen of Scots. The scheme came to nothing, for the Scots were hostile and war resulted, when 16,000 Englishmen met 23,000 Scots at Pinkie, killing 6000 and routing the rest. Sir Ralph Sadler, who had spent an unhappy time in Edinburgh watching over Mary, brought back with him from the battlefield this mast of Scotland’s flag. Facing his tomb is that of his son Thomas, here in stone with his wife and their two children. We may see part of their old home (Lordship Manor) half a mile away by the river, incorporated into a house of a later day. The date 1546 on one of the stones, with Sir Ralph’s initials, show that he built it a year before the Battle of Pinkie, and it would be to this house that he brought back the standard pole.

Though the outside of the church has received a new stone face, inside everything, so far as the structure is concerned, is much as it was when the Calais merchant john Field was laid here in 1474. His brass portrait is on the top of his altar tomb with that of his son john, each with his children pictured below. There is a merchant’s mark on one of the four shields at the corners. Below the chancel steps are other brass portraits of a man of the 15th century and a soldier named Wade of the 16th, but someone has stolen the portrait of William Coffyn, Master of the Horse to Henry VIII’s third queen. The font has a fine 13th-century bowl.

The village was the home of one of the soldier poets who gave his life for us in the Great War, Robert Ernest Vernede. He was a scholar at St Paul’s School and St John’s at Oxford, and became a writer of novels and sketches and poems. He went out to France in the first few months of the war, when he was 40, was wounded soon after, and went back again. He had a fervent love of England. In one of his poems he asks the sleepers in France who will bring them fame in the coming years, and one of the last of all the poems he wrote was this noble prayer for his country:

All that a man might ask thou has given me, England,
Birthright and happy childhood’s long heartsease,
And love whose range is deep beyond all sounding,
And wider than all seas:
A heart to front the world and find God in it,
Eyes blind enow but not too blind to see
The lovely things behind the dross and darkness.
And lovelier things to be;
And friends whose loyalty time nor death shall weaken,
And quenchless hope and laughter’s golden store
All that a man might ask thou hast given me, England,
Yet grant thou one thing more:
That now when envious foes would spoil thy splendour,
Unversed in arms, a dreamer such as I
May in thy ranks be deemed not all unworthy,
England, for thee to die.

Thursday, 28 October 2010

Much Hadham

St Andrew is perhaps everyone's idea of what an East Anglian church should be - a fine tower and spire, flint walls with battlements, and inside, heavy oak doors, massive roof timbers and intricate carving on the furnishings. All such details are well worth a look; they were well designed, and they are little altered handiwork of their age. The more you look, the more obvious it becomes that this is a complicated building; bits and pieces have been added for 750 years, making up a whole which is still developing.

In general, Much Hadham’s is typical of the Hertfordshire churches - it has, for instance, a "Hertfordshire spike", the lead-covered spire built on the top of the tower. But it is unusually large, 121 ft long, with a nave and two big aisles, which makes it seem more like a town church (such as Bishop’s Stortford, Ware or Hitchin) than a village one. The explanation is that the land around belonged to the Bishops of London, they built one of their official residences here and wanted a grander church.

The church was vandalised by Hertfordshire’s own Dowsing, John Skingle, during the Commonwealth when it lost most of its glass.

Unusually most of my favourite bits are modern (obviously not all):

The west window of the Tree of Life, dedicated in 1995, marks 10 years of the St Andrew and Holy Cross (Catholic) congregations sharing this church. Designed in 1979 by Henry Moore for an east window in the new church the Roman Catholics then planned. This stained-glass interpretation was made by Patrick and John Reyntiens

The Arts and Crafts steel light fittings in the nave, made to an excellent design by Sir Albert Richardson, which were given in memory of Lady Florence Norman of Moor Place in 1936.

The heads of a king and queen (1953) by Henry Moore, who lived in the parish from 1947 until 1986, inserted as label stops beside the west door of the tower; east of the chancel the cross to Frederick Norman (died 1916) with a Crucifixion figure by Henry Wilson, President of the Arts and Crafts Society who also designed the war memorial in the village.

ST ANDREW. Quite a large church, all embattled, and one of complicated history. A C12 church can be surmised but has left no visible traces. About 1220 the chancel was re-built (blocked N lancet window). About the middle of the century a S aisle was added to an older nave, three bays long, with octagonal piers, plain moulded capitals, and double-chamfered arches. As building went on to the W taste changed and the last bays have slightly more complex capitals and arches. The N aisle is of two dates. Its E bay, wider than the others and probably originally opening into a Norman transept, is late C13, the other bays are early C14 (see the capitals of the octagonal piers, and the arch mouldings). The arches are sparsely studded with fleurons. Amongst the S aisle windows one original one is in the Dec style. The same style appears in the S aisle Piscina. The W tower followed under the aegis of Bishop Braybrooke of London (1382-1404). It is of three stages, embattled and has a tall spike. The buttresses are diagonal, the W window is tall. The tower arch has an interesting moulding. The C15 added the S porch, inserted the big five-light E window with panel tracery in two tiers and several other windows, and put in new roofs. They all survive and are worth study. The nave wallposts rest on figures, the nave and chancel tie-beams are a little decorated on their undersides, the nave braces carry tracery, etc. - SCREEN. C15 with ‘panel’ tracery. - CHANCEL STALLS. With panelled back walls and poppyheads. - DOOR to N vestry. With big C13 ironwork. - CHAIRS. Two big chairs of c. 1400; of uncommon interest. - PAINTING. On the N wall remains of ornamental Early Tudor wall painting. - TILES. A few C14 tiles inside the N chancel recess. - STAINED GLASS. In the head of the E window, unfortunately too high to be seen properly, two figures of male saints and a row of female saints, C15, apparently well preserved. - E window by Burlison & Grylls, c. 1875-80. - S aisle last window from W designed by Selwyn Image and executed 1891. - PLATE. Two Chalices and a small Paten of 1576; Paten of 1811. - MONUMENTS. Brass with demi-figure of a man, C15 (chancel floor). - Brasses to a man and woman, c. 1500; to Clement Newce d.1519, wife and children; and to William Newce d. 1610, wife and children (nave E end). - Epitaph to Judith Aylmer d. 1618, wife of the Bishop of London, with the usual kneeling figure. - Joane Goldsmith d. 1569 (nave E end). - Dionis Burton d. 1616 (next to the Goldsmith brass). 

St Andrew and Holy Cross (7)


St Andrew and Holy Cross (4)


Corbel (24)Corbel (13)




Henry Moore design (2)


North Aisle


Henry Wilson Crucifixtion
Judith Aylmer 1618 (4)

Much Hadham. Just where the River Ash bends round Bush Hill is a farmhouse of such dignity that we should guess it had a history; and so it has. It is the Palace, the country home of the Bishops of London for 800 years, and here began our Tudor dynasty,for Henry V’s widow (Shakespeare’s Katharine) gave birth in this farmhouse to Edmund Tudor, whose son Harry won the throne on Bosworth Field. The building has changed since then. Today it is mainly 16th century, with an outer casing of 17th-century brick and later wings. A floor cuts in half the fine old hall with its gabled windows and mighty oak girders, but there is an elegant staircase, and 17th-century panelling.

Giant survivors from the bishop’s avenue of trees lead to the road, and another avenue of mighty limes leads to the ancient yew, sturdy sentinel by the spacious church, which has been growing since the 12th century. Nothing is here of the Normans, and it is 13th century masons who have left their mark; we see it on almost every chalk stone at the end of the south arcade as clearly as if it had been scratched yesterday. The chancel was rebuilt about 1 220. The north aisle with its grand arcade was added about 1300, and at the end of that century Bishop Braybrooke built the massive tower and set his arms over the door.

Bearing up the 600-year-old roof of the nave are stone carvings of a sceptred king, a recumbent knight, a lady with a distaff, and the four Evangelists. The capitals and arches of the superb north arcade are rich in carvings of flowers and heads of lions and of men. The 15th century added carvings in wood to that in stone. The lions in the roof, the rood screen of elaborate tracery, the choir stalls with their misericords, the chancel panelling and some panels in the pulpit, two high-backed chairs, and some of the nave seats, are all of that time. The altar table is Elizabethan. Round the 15th century Easter Sepulchre are patterned tiles 600 years old, and the old vestry door has ornamental ironwork a century older. Some glass in the east window has wonderfully survived 500 years; it shows Peter and Andrew with a row of saintly women.

A wife of one of the bishops, Judith Aylmer of 1618, is here in stone, but without her head. Among the portraits in brass are a serjeant-at-law who died about 1420, an Elizabethan mercer called Clement Newce with his wife and 17 children, and William Newce (who died in 1612) with his two wives and 13 children. One brass tells us of Simon Flambard who heard the news of Bannockburn when he was parson here, and another asks us in French to pray for the soul of a later 14th-century parson. A more famous rector was Alexander Nowell, the Dean of St Pauls who wrote the Catechism. Elizabeth I thought highly of his learning, but that did not prevent her rating him soundly for presenting to her a prayer book with pictures of saints and martyrs, and once when he was preaching she called out "To your text, Mr Dean. Leave that; we have heard enough of that," so disconcerting the poor man that he was unable to finish his sermon.

The rectory is a little later than his day, a Jacobean house of brick-and-plastered timber. Several other old houses with over-hanging storeys give great charm to the village, and there is an inn with a secret passage behind its panelling.

Flickr set. 

Thursday, 16 September 2010

The Hormeads

Normally I would cover St Nicholas, Great Hormead, and St Mary, Little Hormead, as separate posts but Arthur Mee covers them as one entity so who am I to diverge from the master?

When I visited St Mary in March there was a team of three CCT conservators busy at work in the church on the 12th century north door - if they weren't there I doubt I would have got access to the interior. According to the CCT website St Mary is a small, rural and homely piece of living history, with an 11th century nave and a 13th century chancel, divided by a grand Norman chancel arch. One of the two Norman doorways has its original door (now preserved inside). This is a rare and precious survival, with wonderful craftsmanship in wood and ironwork. Amongst the wealth of interest here is an exquisitely carved 14th century font and an unusual set of Charles II Royal Arms, of 1660. Ancient timbers survive in the roofs and support a later bell turret, containing two bells which may well have rung out over this beautiful area of agricultural north-east Hertfordshire for 600 years.

St Mary, in my opinion, is rather odd for a Hertfordshire church - the shingled belfry is reminiscent of a mid Essex church - but it's a step up from the humdrum Braintree architectural style perhaps because of the whitewashed wooden tower or it's situation. I'm glad that the CCT are fulfilling Arthur's wishes by remedying year's of neglect.


ST MARY. The fame of this small and lonely church is its N DOOR, with the most lavish display of C12 ironwork, two large interlaced quatrefoil patterns in the centre, and borders of scrolls and trails. The door belongs to the N doorway which has one order of colonnettes with scalloped capitals and an arch with a thick roll moulding and a thin unusual triangular moulding. The same capitals and mouldings grouped inside in the awkwardly depressed chancel arch. The S doorway is also Norman and simpler. In fact the whole nave is Norman (see also one deeply splayed small roundheaded N window), the chancel E.E. (the S lancet windows are original). - The roofs are of the late Middle Ages, with rough tie-beams in the nave, with diagonal wind-braces in the chancel. - FONT. Early C14, octagonal, with very pretty blank tracery. - ROYAL ARMS. Dated 1660, small but nicely carved; above the chancel arch.






St Nicholas has the worst extension in the history of church extensions - how it got through planning is beyond me, I suspect corruption. That aside I can see why Mee extolled St Mary over St Nicholas. Although on the face of it St Nicholas is the grander church, St Mary is more charming and intimate - St Nicholas feels Puritan but has some nice features.

ST NICHOLAS. Away from the village street, on a hill behind Great Hormead Bury. The church is much restored (1874), the chancel rebuilt, and the S porch an addition. W tower with diagonal buttresses (late C14 to late C15), nave, and two aisles. Three bays with octagonal piers, moulded capitals, and double-chamfered arches. The date may be c. 1300. The last much shorter arcade bays were added, probably later in the C14. The W tower arch still later, say c. 1400 (shafts with capitals and, in the diagonals, hollows without capitals). - FONT. Norman, undecorated, on thick circular stem and eight shafts set around. - PLATE. Two Chalices, 1740, 1748. - MONUMENT. Lt-Col. Stables, killed at Waterloo 1815, Grecian sarcophagus with the word Waterloo on it in an oval laurel Wreath. By Kendrick. 




Hormead. It is Hormead Great and Hormead Little, and they are half a mile apart, both with ancient churches, one of which we found sadly in need of restoration, hoping that the petition on its 500 year-old bell would be answered, St Margaret, pray for us.

It is Little Hormead that needs St Margaret's prayers. It has a Norman doorway in which a magnificent door has been hanging for 800 years, splendid with 12th-century ironwork, a very rare survival, and the splendid Norman chancel arch; the medieval bell with its silent prayer in Latin was on the floor. Some of the old houses here have fared better than the church, one black-and-white timbered farm making an arresting picture down the road, and the Old Glebe House having given a new lease of life to its long thatched barn by turning it into a home.

The nave and the north aisle are 13th century, the south aisle 14th, while the tower was finished in the 15th, the north chapel added in the 16th century, and the whole church was made to look new when the chancel was built in 1874. There are animal gargoyles on the outside walls showing rows of grinning teeth, and queer stone faces inside staring down from the open timbers of the roof. A rusty helmet hangs over the 17th-century memorial of William Brand, and there is a memorial to a soldier of the manor house, Colonel Stables, who served under Wellington and Sir John Moore, and sleeps near the battlefield of Waterloo, where he fell. A lovely face looks down from another stone, a relief of Betty Romer, who died in 1916. The pillared font is Norman.

Great Hormead has still the sails of its old post-mill stretched to the wind near the stump of a small smock-mill, and two miles down a lane we come upon a queer place called Brick House, which seemed to us to have lost itself in time and place, rising from the middle of an overgrown field, with stepped gables, and forbidding air enhanced by small peepholes in the walls, which command a view of every corner of the house and every point of the compass.

Flickr set (Gt).  Flickr set (Lt).

Wednesday, 15 September 2010

Furneux Pelham

St Mary the Virgin's main draw is the fantastic nave roof which is oak with the beams supported by carved Angels holding coats of arms and musical instruments, one of which holds the arms of the Norman de Furneux family who gave the village its name. At some stage the original wings were sawn off, probably due to decay, and in 1964, when the roof was restored, they were replaced with wings made of Honduras mahogany. They are garishly painted which, unlike the Cutte tomb in Arkesden, lifts the Angels from the ordinary to the extraordinary - I've seen unpainted Angels in other churches and, due to the height of the roof and poor lighting, they often fade into the shadows, here in Furneux they shout out their existence!

In a recess near the chancel there is a 17th century Portuguese leather reredos and an unnamed and undated brass of a husband and wife with their two sons and three daughters. On the tower is a diamond shaped clock with the motto 'Time flies, mind your business' - until 1906, when it was repainted it read 'Time flies, mind your own business'. 


ST MARY. A big church, Perp except for the long chancel whose lancet windows (two with inner nook-shafts) and Sedilia and Piscina arrangement and details (stiff-leaf capitals) date it as middle of the C13. Tall unbuttressed W tower with Herts spike. The nave aisles frame the tower. Two-storeyed embattled S porch with two-light windows, markedly higher than the un-embattled aisle. Big S chapel coming forward as far as the S porch. The windows Late Perp. As the chapel was built (by Robert Newport) about 1518 and the N and S aisle windows are of the same shape as those of the chapel, the same late date may be assumed for the former as well. Two-light clerestory windows. The N and S aisle arcades are of a late type too, with semi-octagonal shafts and hollows (without capitals) in the diagonals. Low-pitched nave roof with tie-beams, high-pitched chancel roof with struts and collar-beams. In the nave the sub-principals are carried on angels. - FONT. Octagonal, C13, of Purbeck marble with shallow blank pointed arches. - STAINED GLASS. In the S chapel Morris and Burne-Jones windows for the Calvert family, that on the S with four figures of angels 1866, that on the E with the Virgin, Gabriel (by Morris), and Michael 1873. The quality is outstanding, especially if compared with other Victorian glass. - MONUMENTS. Tomb-chest in the S aisle at the W end with cusped quatrefoils and shields. On it the exquisite, c. 3 ft long brass figures of a man and woman of the early C15. They lie under a cusped double ogee canopy with pinnacles to the l. and r. - Brass plate to R. Newport with kneeling figures, dated 1518, on a marble slab. - Tomb-chest of Edward Cason d. 1624, with black marble pilasters and top slab. Against the back wall inscription tablet.





 

 
 

 


Furneux Pelham. "Time Flies, Mind Your Business," announces the church clock for all to see; and a swarm of bees seemed to be taking the words to heart when we called, flying in and out under the clock. For the rest, time and business seemed merely to saunter by in this pleasant village off the highway.

Yet 800 years have passed since the Norman family of de Furneux gave the village its first name, and 700 years have gone since the chancel of the church was built. It still has its three stone seats for the priests. The rest of the church is 15th century, with clerestoried nave, aisles, two-storied porch, and west tower. The finest sight here is also from the early I5th century, the altar tomb with two figures cut in brass, a man and his widow under canopies. Another brass of a very small knight kneeling with his wife and five children is thought to portray Robert Newport, whose money built the south chapel, where an Elizabethan helmet hangs over the altar tomb of a later lord of the manor, Edward Cason.


The low-pitched roof of this chapel and the angels supporting it seem to have been modelled on the finer 15th-century roof of the nave, borne up by wooden angels holding shields, two painted with coats-of-arms. The font is 700 years old. Built into a wall are two stone coffins, and in the chapel we found the lid of another. The royal arms on the screen at the west end of the south aisle have the dates 1634, 1660, and 1831. It is indeed a Royalist church, and a story told here is that the vicar Richard Hancock marched up and down the churchyard sword in hand to prevent any Puritan making away with the altar rails or with the first of these royal arms.
 

The village street sinks into a hollow and then rises to the green verge and gates of the hall, a big Elizabethan house with curving Stuart gables among the older ones. We get a glimpse of it from the road through a window cut in a thick yew hedge.

Flickr set.